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CRA News May 2002

Selected articles from the newsletter of the Carmel Residents Association

Socialiizing after the March CRA meeting
Marta and Tom Korper, right, display the Certificate of Appreciation presented to them by CRA President Monte Miller, left, and Treasurer Peggy Purchase. The Korpers are longtime members and supporters of the Carmel Residents Association. (See story below.)


CRA Meeting -- The Magic of Robinson Jeffers and Tor House

Thursday, May 23 -- CRA Meeting
         4:45 p.m. -- Alex Vardamis -- Robinson Jeffers and Tor House
Vista Lobos Meeting Room, Torres between 3rd & 4th
Following the meeting, delicious hot and cold hors d'oeuvres

We are fortunate to have one of the foremost experts on poet Robinson Jeffers as a speaker at CRA's May meeting--our own Alex Vardamis. President of both the local Tor House Foundation and the Robinson Jeffers Association, a nationwide university-based organization dedicated to promoting the study of the poet, Alex will discuss the poet's life, his poetic importance and Tor House itself. Owned by the Tor House Foundation since 1978, this magnificent stone structure was preserved largely through the efforts of the late Fred Farr, Donan and Lee Jeffers and other dedicated locals. The city of Carmel-by-the-Sea owns 10% of the building, having contributed $10,000 toward its purchase. Lee Jeffers, Donan's widow, lived at Tor House until her death in December, 1999. Her cottage now houses the office of the Tor House Foundation.

Alex Vardamis, a native of Bangor, Maine, has a Bachelor's Degree from West Point, and an M.A. and Ph.D. in English and Comparative Literature from Columbia University. Author of an influential text in Jeffers' studies, The Critical Reputation of Robinson Jeffers, he has written extensively on modern American Literature.

During his military career, our speaker was a professor of English at West Point, an exchange officer with the German army and defense attaché in both Norway and Greece. He was a Fellow at Harvard University and Director of European Studies at the U.S. Army War College, and he served in Viet Nam.

Retiring from the military as a colonel, Vardamis taught at Dickinson State University, in North Dakota, and for ten years at the University of Vermont, in Burlington, where he received an award for teaching excellence. During 95-96, he was awarded a Fulbright Fellowship and taught American studies in Norway. Last year, he taught a Gentrain Course at MPC on Steinbeck and Jeffers.

Equally active, Alex's wife Fran is the author of Russian Doll, a detective novel dealing with international terrorism, set in Athens, Greece. A second novel, Ancestral Voices, is scheduled for publication in early 2002. She is also well known for her work as a Norwegian-English translator. Fran serves on the Harrison Memorial Library Board, as president of the Friends of the Harrison Memorial Library and editor of the Tor House Newsletter.


CRA set for Forest Theater on July 12

A wonderful summer event for CRA members and friends has been planned for Friday, July 12, at the Outdoor Forest Theater! At 6:30 p.m., we will enjoy a delicious dinner catered by Ron Benedetti, followed by the Forest Theater Guild's production of Fiddler on the Roof. The cost for the dinner is $18 and the ticket, $12. Please send your check by July 6, made out to CRA, for $30 for both the dinner and performance, to Mary Pankonin. (Call her at 622-0531 for information on where to mail the check.)

Because we will have paid the caterer and Forest Theater Guild, no additions or refunds can be made after July 6. If you have questions, please call Mary at 622-0531.

Remember to bring your own liquid refreshments, warm coats, hats, gloves and blankets.

The hard-working event committee, headed by Mary Pankonin, includes Lisa Budlong, Sandra Benson, Diane Flanders, Flo Snyder and Brie Tripp.


EDITORIAL

The up-and-down saga of the 12th Avenue beach stairway
After approving the project, council reverses itself and rejects $165,000 grant

In the El Niño storms of 1982-83, the stairway access to the beach at Scenic Road and 12th Avenue was destroyed. In late 1998, when State Coastal Conservancy funds became available for coastal access improvements, the city applied for grant assistance and in May, 1999, was awarded a grant of $165,000.

Approved by the Forest and Beach and Planning Commissions and the Coastal Commission in 2000, the project was stalled at the city's top leadership level. It was reactivated after a 2001-02 budget hearing when three former mayors, Charlotte Townsend, Jean Grace and Ken White, pled for its inclusion. Townsend was in office when the original damage occurred, Grace chaired the Beach Task Force which recommended the replacement and White was mayor when the grant was awarded.

Unfortunately, because so much time lapsed between the time the grant was approved and the bids were solicited, both inflation and a tight construction market drove up the cost of the project and grant funds are no longer sufficient to finance the entire job. The low bid came in at $340,000.

Not wanting to lose the grant monies, City Administrator Rich Guillen asked Greg D'Ambrosio to look at options for funding the shortfall. At the April 3 City Council meeting, D'Ambrosio said the funds could come out of the Capital Reserve account or from a potentially-large refund coming from the Federal Emergency Management Administration (FEMA). Staff had worked with the architect and found potential cuts which would take the project down to $314,000. The Coastal Conservancy grant was scheduled to run out April 15 if the city did not take action. During the discussion, Council members Ely and Livingston supported doing the entire job "right" rather than cutting back on the design to save money. Several members of the public said they agreed. No one spoke against the project.

Finally, the council voted 4-1 to fund the $314,000 version of the project. After his final plea to do the full job was ignored, Ely voted no. After the meeting an administrative error was discovered that negated the vote.

A re-vote on the item appeared on the consent calendar of a special April 18 City Council meeting. Members of the public who had spoken in favor of the measure on April 3 assumed that since the contract was on the consent calendar it was there to fix the administrative error and felt no urgency to alert others to attend.

To the great surprise of the audience, Mayor McCloud "pulled" the item. The council gave no hint as to their thoughts before the topic was opened for public comment. Those who favored this measure assumed that their opinions had been heard previously and there was no need to repeat them. To the amazement of all, Mayor McCloud and Council Members Rose and Hazdovac, citing budget concerns, voted to disapprove the contract award and return the grant money to the Coastal Conservancy. We question how the city's budgetary outlook could have significantly changed over a period of 15 days. Was budget information down played during the recent campaign?

Many feel the agenda item was erroneously titled. The public should have been alerted that approval of this item would again be discussed. This seems contrary to the intent of the Brown Act.

Council member Ely felt it was wrong for the council to change its vote of approval. He and council member Livingston voted against returning the grant money and cancelling the project. It is ironic that the City Council is considering hiring a grant writer. We fear that because of this vote to return the Coastal Conservancy grant as well as inaction on the San Carlos Street project, which includes a $155,000 Federal grant, public and non-profit agencies will think twice before awarding other monies to Carmel-by-the-Sea.

A May 8, 2002 letter to Mayor Sue McCloud from the Executive Officer of the Coastal Conservancy expresses great disappointment with the City Council's April 18 decision and urges the city's "... expeditious reconsideration of the Carmel Beach stairway project so that this long-sought benefit may be brought to your city." "Let me be clear about the implications of the Council's action:" admonishes the Executive Officer, "not only will these funds no longer be available to the City of Carmel, they will no longer be available for any Conservancy project."


President's Message
It's been a good year serving a great organization

by Monte Miller

My term of office is drawing to a close. How time flies when you are having fun! In both my Air Force and civilian careers I have always been middle management. Then all of a sudden I was promoted to be "President" of CRA, a 600+ membership. Roberta, my wife, kept me from having a swelled head. It was also quite startling to be the one where the buck stops. I heard about my mistakes in no uncertain terms, although these comments were mitigated by unsolicited compliments about how nice a particular program was, or that a policy change was appreciated. The Board kept me on course from some of my wild ideas so that tradition was never violated.

Things about my term that were pleasing:

Our general meetings followed by either refreshments or dinner at one of our fine Carmel restaurants--these programs included topics on historic preservation, the Coastal Commission, Afghanistan, the beautiful parks and trails of Carmel, time travel to the Civil War with Isaiah Turner, and our very own Howard Skidmore, in a fascinating discussion of celebrities who have known him.

Our new member coffees, which proved to be very successful--we are far behind, however, because of the number of new members. So be patient as it will take quite a while to take care of the 90 or so new members who haven't yet been invited. We found that about 20 invitees at a time allows everyone to get a chance to talk with each other.

Our social and fund raising events--these included BBQs, dinner at the Forest Theater, a joint fund-raising effort for Sunset Center with the Carmel Business Association and the Beach Cleanup marchers in the city's birthday parade.

Our civic activities--Citizen of the Year, the Voter Forum and our monthly Beach Cleanup.

Most of all, I enjoyed the chance to meet and chat with the many members who participated as volunteers or attendees at our events.

Things about my term that were somewhat disconcerting:

The shots our organization took during the recent campaign--I tried hard to steer a course of dealing with issues rather than supporting any particular candidate. We still suffered slings and arrows from newspaper letters, articles and editorials. We have members from all sides of the political spectrum and all we asked of them was to vote as they saw fit. I believe, unless the membership wants to change these policies, that we should continue this approach.

Not enough members attend council and commission meetings. The following quote from the beginning of the Brown Act states best why we should stay informed:

"The people of this State do not yield their sovereignty to the agencies which serve them. The people, in delegating authority, do not give their public servants the right to decide what is good for the people to know and what is not good for them to know. The people insist on remaining informed so that they may retain control over the instruments they have created."

May is annual dues month when all members must reaffirm their membership. It is also the time to let us know on the dues-return envelope how you would like to help. We maintain a data base of those who have volunteered for various activities like handing out information flyers at the Post Office, the Beach Cleanup or working on our many social events. If we can get an e-mail address from you, it reduces the number of telephone calls we have to make when significant events occur that require member notification.

I will present the new slate of officers, elected by the Board, at our May 23rd general meeting. In addition, I will announce the new and renewed Board members elected by the membership during April and early May. At that time I will hand over the gavel to our new president. The hors d'oeuvres after the meeting will be provided this month by Board members to give our usual willing helpers a break. Thank you for your continuing support of the Board and its officers. I especially appreciate all the enthusiastic efforts from the many volunteers who are the backbone of our organization.


Ordinance to limit number of art galleries placed on hold

A long-awaited ordinance which would place a numeric limit on the ever-increasing number of art galleries in Carmel was included on the agenda of the May 8 Planning Commission meeting. However, when the meeting reached that point, a letter was read advising that the matter be "tabled." Commission Chair Frank Wasko, when asked, said, "I understand that it was the City Administrator who wanted the ordinance off the agenda." We had hoped to find out more information on the status of this ordinance. Unfortunately, we played "phone tag" with City Administrator Rich Guillen and Planning Director Christi diIorio but were unable to talk with either of them before CRA News press time.


COUNCIL WATCH

  • At the May 7 City Council meeting, Mayor McCloud appointed Dick Ely Mayor pro tem and Paula Hazdovac as an ex officio member of Carmel Business Association Board of Directors.

  • Because the council had rescinded its approval on April 18 of the 12th Avenue Stair project after pulling a routine-looking item from the Consent Calendar, CRA President Monte Miller asked the City Council to ensure that agenda items in the future were printed in clearer language to give the public an idea of what kind of action could be taken.

  • The City Council decided to postpone action on the formation of a citizen Community Traffic Safety Commission until the June 4 meeting. Although originally proposed as an effort to use less staff time, city staff in an August 8, 2000 memo, argued, "The existing [staff] committee believes that replacing the current membership with citizen members will multiply the demands on staff time rather than reduce demands." The ad hoc committee appointed to study the issue recommended that the citizen committee be formed. At the council meeting, Councilman Rose said that the purpose of this commission is to "wrest control from staff." Councilwoman Livingston pointed out that cities she had contacted--Sedona, Sausalito, Monterey and Sonoma--all use staff traffic committees.

  • Unfortunately, this year's budget meetings (See calendar) are already scheduled. However, we hope that in the future the city will hold at least one budget meeting in the friendlier "Town Hall" format. Although this practice was dropped after the 2000 election, we feel that a more informal setting makes it far easier for residents to express their opinions. Many are uncomfortable having to use a podium and microphone at council or commission meetings and, thus, do not speak or even attend.

  • In order to conform with the Federal Clean Water Act, the city will have to spend considerable funds on its storm water drainage system. Currently the city pays around $203,000 for storm water control, but in order to conform with new guidelines, the tab will be closer to $500,000. In 2001 the council formed a Storm Water Utility which includes a provision to charge a fee to users. The city is currently planning a three-month public information program with the intent of beginning in July to charge residents $10.13 per month, which would generate around $500,000 per year. Public Works Director Jim Cullem hopes to hold an informational town meeting on the subject. It is not clear if this fee must be voted on by Carmel residents.

  • Committees have been appointed to 1) study consultant reports on file with the city, including master plans for the Forest Theater and the Scout House; and 2) study whether or not to replace the Scenic restrooms with a permanent facility. We hope that the first priority will be to restore the portable units, no matter what the final decision might be, since a permanent solution would take many months.


Beach Cleanup

Saturday, May 25
10 a.m. - noon

* Volunteers meet at foot of Ocean Avenue
* Please bring gloves
* Coffee and pastries served courtesy of Caffe Cardinale and Carmel Bakery


St Moritz Sweaters awarded a Certificate of Appreciation by CRA

St. Moritz Sweaters, located on the south side of Ocean between Dolores and Lincoln, was a recent recipient of a Certificate of Appreciation from the Carmel Residents Association.

Tom Korper was born in Switzerland and moved to Argentina when his father's company relocated. Marta is a native Argentinian. Their small, family-operated shop, opened in 1982, is filled with an impressive array of beautiful American-made and imported fine woolens, cotton, cashmere, alpaca, angora and hand-knit products. This is a Carmel shop that gives you a quality product for a reasonable price.

The Korpers routinely offer a 10% discount to Carmel residents. However, they said that since June will mark their 20th anniversary in business, they are offering a 20% discount to all Carmel Residents Association members during the month.


OLD CARMEL
by Connie Wright

Those MacGowan Sisters
and the Carmel Bunch


The MacGowan House on 13th Ave.
is a familiar landmark

Alice MacGowan (1858-1947) and Grace MacGowan Cooke (1863-1944) came to Carmel in 1908 with Grace's two daughters, Helen and Katherine. Preceding them in the move were George "the King of Bohemia" and Carrie Sterling, Mary Austin, Arnold Genthe, Jimmy Hopper, Nora May French and Mike and Peggy Williams. Jack and Charmian London, Ambrose Bierce and others stayed briefly.

Previously the McGowan sisters had been residents of Helicon Hall, an experiment in socialist living in Englewood, New Jersey, established by Upton Sinclair in 1906. Members included every kind of left wing and crank group. A temporary drop out from Yale, Harry "Hal" Sinclair Lewis was the somewhat incompetent furnace tender. When the Hall burned in March, 1907, Alice and Grace were injured jumping from a second-story window and lost all their notes and manuscripts.

The sisters followed Upton Sinclair to Carmel in 1908, where he was attempting to start a socialist utopian open air community. Their house on 13th, 2 N.E. of San Antonio, is two story, pseudo Tudor with a stone chimney and cantilevered bay window. The house was originally almost all alone on a bluff facing the bay. The cove below is now called Cooke's Cove, after Grace. Sinclair Lewis described the scene as "a drift of redwood bungalows lost among the pines." The house became a focal point for gatherings of the Bohemian colony and Cooke's Cove became a favorite spot for mussel and abalone feasts and picnics. Tenderizing the abalone was accompanied by the singing of the Abalone Song, whose composition was a communal effort.

Carmel has been described as "the first rural colony of American men and women of art and letters." These Bohemians gathered here because living was cheap and informal. They could eat abalone, mussels, salmon, quail or other game. There was the Pine Inn, built in 1904, and a general store. For the rest, merchants from Monterey were used. There was no electricity or gas; no paved roads--Main Street was a washboard of mud; and there were paths through the woods on which the residents travelled by foot.

Some of the Bohemians loafed, but the MacGowans were self-supporting, professional writers with schedules, working from morning until midnight, stopping only for meals and an afternoon drive. They had an office and reference books, but no secretary. Grace wired Sinclair Lewis in New York, who arrived scruffy, malnourished and penniless, as usual. It is doubtful that he performed any secretarial duties at all and Grace sent him packing when she heard him make a remark about Helen. He left, owing Grace $150, but George Sterling got him a job on a San Francisco newspaper.

The MacGowan sisters wrote historical romances, social novels, mysteries, Westerns, local color stories and children's fiction. Often they collaborated with themselves or others. Alice wrote five mystery novels with Perry Newberry. While their fiction is certainly not prize winning, it is interesting in that they take up "modern" subjects. The Power and the Glory (1910) deals with conditions in the cotton mills and child labor; Wild Apples (1918) is the story of an unwed mother; and a series of stories for Everybody's Magazine explored the racial question in the South.

Despite the delightful surroundings and the relaxed atmosphere, people frequently became depressed and suicidal. In 1907, Nora May French took cyanide and died in the Sterlings' cottage; in 1913, Carrie Sterling left George, unable to put up with his alcoholism and womanizing. In 1916, Jack London, alcoholic and feeling that life had no purpose, died of kidney disease or perhaps suicide. And, in 1918, Carrie Sterling, depressed and destitute in Oakland, took cyanide.

In 1926, Sinclair Lewis, now the highly successful author of three best sellers, Main Street, Babbitt and Arrowsmith, came to San Francisco and visited George Sterling, who was living at the Bohemian Club at the expense of an anonymous benefactor, as a curious kind of historic relic. Lewis bought a Buick touring car and motored down to the Del Monte Lodge, owned by a Yale classmate, Sam Morse (whom he had not known at Yale). Lewis wrote to his father:

"Here I am a mile from my old haunts at Carmel. Gosh how the whole place has changed. Carmel is about three times as big as it used to be, and where once the main street had just simple, ordinary grocery stores and so on, now it has arty shops selling English pottery and French lamp shades and that sort of junk; where once everyone was poor and simple and walked, wearing corduroy trousers and flannel shirts and sneakers, now they ride, in fairly expensive cars, and wear smart English tweeds; where once we went picnicking on the rocks, carrying our grub in baskets, they go over to the Del Monte Grill to dine and dance ... and those same once wild rocky shores, so free and uninhabited then, are covered with expensive homes. All in fifteen years!"

Lewis interested Alfred Harcourt, his publisher, in publishing a book of George Sterling's San Francisco literary reminiscences. But before the project could go forward, George, in despair, took cyanide.

Through it all, the MacGowan sisters soldiered on, but by 1928 the taste of the reading public had changed and their careers were finished.


Local History Lecture

The year's final local history lecture will feature Wei Chang, well-known local photographer, talking about the life and art of his grandfather, master painter Chang Dai-Chien. The event will be held at 7 p.m., Monday, May 27 in Carpenter Hall at Sunset Center.

Heralded as the best-known Chinese painter of the 20th Century, Chang Dai-Chien (1899-1983) derived a modern, international style from the Chinese art tradition. He left China during the revolution of 1949 and lived in many countries before coming to California. He moved to the Monterey Peninsula in 1956, owning homes in Carmel and Pebble Beach. His work was greatly inspired by the local landscape of our area.


Our Favorite Places

A Great Barber Shop

Clayton Anderson says, "If you want a top-notch haircut, you don't have to leave Carmel-by-the-Sea. Michael Maryk's Princetonian is right here in Carmel and he does a great job of barbering. Or, if you need hair replacement, he is an expert on that too.

"Michael Maryk, a long-time CRA member, doesn't review movies--he writes them and is a successful screen writer with a new film coming out this summer. The movie, 13th Child--The Legend of the Jersey Devil, featuring Cliff Robertson, Leslie-Ann Down, Robert Guilleaume and Christopher Atkins, includes an eight-foot-tall rendering of America's oldest monster legend, the Jersey Devil."


Old Carmel

They will forget the chaparral
That clothed the long slope to the sea;
In years to come they will forget
How wild was this place, and how free!

There will be houses ranged on streets,
And the woods will be gone, and the pines;
They will crowd out the little feet
That patterned the path with long lines.

A city shall defeat the quail
That called by the candle of dawn;
There will be no more boughs to hide
The gentle-paced doe and the fawn.

Order will kill sweet negligence
That nourished the flower and the bird;
Speed with its cold efficiency
Will crush all the singing unheard.

They will forget the lantern days
When cabins were scattered and few;
And only the glowworm lit the path
Through the dark of the moon and the dew.

To the redwood room and the embered hearth
Where the lamp for reading shone,
And the manzanita sparked its fire
Through the words of Dante and Donne ...

There will be wealth and circumstance;
But the faded old dwellers of yore,
Who nevertheless were the rich after all,
Those shall be known no more.

--Valerie Gough

Reprinted from a March, 1943 edition of the
Carmel Pine Cone o Cymbal



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Carmel Residents Association
P.O. Box 13
Carmel, CA 93921
Phone: 831-626-1610
Contact the Carmel Residents Association
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